December 10 -- (Lou)

Looked as though I would burn through a bit of shoe leather today what with Roger strapped to the dentists chair most of the morning.  With a no appointment policy in the office, there is often some guesswork as to when treatments occur.  One stands by the door in the hallway at opening time (9 am) awaiting staff to arrive.  This particular morning, staff arrived closer to 10 ostensibly due to traffic.  Roger has had the whitening procedure here before and it lasted about an hour.  This new procedure included upgrades which unbeknonst to him became a sessional experience taking who knows how long so, with various appliances stretching his mouth to resemble The Joker, Roger gave me a heads up and I hit the road.  

My goal was the Islamic Arts Museum, and the route looked easy enough.  Port Said Street is a major artery that should have been easily seen on my amble were it not for my attention diverted by sightseeing.  Suddenly the major artery in front of me was of the 12 traffic throbbed lanes of the corniche, separating me from Tahrir Square and the Cairo Museum.  Though it can't be seen at this juncture, the Nile's location is hinted at by the sight of the July 26 bridge pylons; the lotus inspired Observation Tower over in Garden City; the Ritz Carlton Hotel, source of Cairo's best martinis but I digress.  

While the corniche does not lead one to the Islamic Arts Museum, it is really close to the beautiful campus of the American University in Cairo and by extension, an oasis of cool and quiet that is its bookstore.  the book store was on my trip list anyway so, I aimed for its security manned entrance and stepped from bright street sun to cool terrace shade.  Turning to retrieve my backpack and phone and walking toward the open door I found myself nosediving and sliding across its white marble terrace.  Seems my pre-cateract-operation eyes with their contrast issues missed the terraces only marble step.  "Safe" I imagined the umpire calling to me as I crossed through the fortunately opened entry door/home plate.  

Downtown Cairo is a great walking city and the hike to the Islamic Arts Museum took me past some gorgeous architecture in neighborhoods varying from chic to weary, from commercial to residential.  Street scenes varied with the neighborhoods where folks loaded goods and purchases on trucks and buses, or relaxed with a cup of tea in the shaded sidewalk shisha shops.  

Several times near where I thought the museum might be, I'd approach a looming edifice only to discover it was The National Library or some such institution but soon enough the museum, with its promise of medieval treasures, welcomed me.  My focus was on its fabulous displays of everything Mamluk period: tiles, porcelain; carved and inlaid furniture and architectural elements.  The spare exhibits displayed only the best, in very spacious halls.  The overall effect was to create memorable focus in a calming oasis environment.  

Two fun little side notes for me were the graceful carved medieval marble water coolers, like the one we discovered in my Cyr Auction days used as a planter in a Yarmouth garden.  The other was a fun placard showing images of the museums exhibition styles from its inception.  The 1903 exhibit photograph showed the same advanced and unique for the time display techniques used at the Egyptian Museum in 1902.  The earlier photo of a more willy-nilly exhibit from the museums inception in 1881 looked surprisingly like the Topsy-Turvy display method used in my Bones Room at home.  

The hike back toward the hotel seemed mercifully short considering how tired my legs were feeling and how thirsty I was.  Met up with Roger who texted me that he was gingerly removing the cook-blackened mushrooms (only white foods allowed for 72 hours after treatment) from his mushroom risotto, and joined him for a big bottle of water and a, (being the insensitive sort that I am) rich black french press coffee.  

After 10 miles of walking, and with the prospect of the evenings tailor/fitting, I postponed dinner to huff and puff my way up two flights of stairs to their atelier but was amply rewarded upon seeing the stunning work they'd performed, brilliantly matching the patterns on Rogers floral jacket.  Delighted as well with the work they were doing for me, we turned our attention to ordering three blouses for Linda.  The pattern she sent was perfect for getting the job done and trying to explain to our Arabic speaking tailors that they were not for us personally was easily remedied by Rogers googling up the word Wife in Arabic.  So, for a brief 15 minute period, Roger and Linda were symbolically married.  That called for a feast for sure but as Roger had already dined, I headed to the patio lentil soup place while he continued shoe shopping, and we met up later for drinks.  White drinks, of course